On the 60th anniversary of National Day, President Hu Jintao’s dark suit drew significant media attention both domestically and internationally. This choice of attire is seen as a symbolic gesture, echoing a long-standing tradition where Chinese leaders have opted for civilian clothing rather than military uniforms when presiding over the National Day military parade. As the Supreme Commander-in-Chief of the Central Military Commission, this decision reflects a balance between honoring tradition and projecting a modern, diplomatic image.
Behind this seemingly simple choice lies a deeper narrative tied to China’s evolving ideological landscape. The practice of tailoring special garments for top leaders dates back to the early years of the People's Republic. In March 1956, a specialized team was formed in Shanghai to produce high-quality suits for the nation’s leaders. A total of 208 employees from 19 clothing stores moved to Beijing, establishing a tailor workshop under the Central Office. Later that year, 12 skilled garment workers were recruited from Shanghai to form the “Special Garment Processing Department†of the Central Office.
These 12 tailors, many of whom had previously worked on the famous “Red Hair†(foreign-style) suits, were tasked with creating custom-made attire for Mao Zedong. Their work included preparing a new look for him during the 1956 Eighth Party Congress. The team worked in semi-military conditions, living in a small courtyard within Zhongnanhai, working from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., and adhering to strict secrecy protocols. They were required to keep their work confidential, even from family and friends, and were often referred to simply as “Zhongnanhai staff.â€
The tailors were paid modest monthly wages, but their craftsmanship was exceptional. Master Lingxi Sheng, known for his expertise in women’s wear, focused on outfits for female guests, while Tian Yatong and Wang Tingsen specialized in making clothes for the leaders. The materials used were sourced directly from manufacturers upon request. When designing Mao’s tunic, they made bold modifications—adjusting the collar, lapels, and shoulder pads to create a more refined and dignified appearance.
This new style, featuring a wide lapel and a large collar, became iconic. It was later dubbed the “Mao Suit†by the West and was prominently displayed on the Tiananmen Tower. After completing their tasks, the tailors moved to Hongdu Clothing Store in East Jiao Min Lane, which served as a garment workshop for the Foreign Affairs Bureau. Here, they continued to make suits for top leaders and foreign dignitaries.
In the 1970s, Tian Yatong became the primary tailor for Mao Zedong. However, due to security concerns, he could not physically measure Mao. Instead, he relied on visual inspection. One night, he stood five meters away from Mao and successfully judged the fit based on experience alone. Similarly, Yu Yuanfang once created a tailored suit for Prince Sihanouk and his wife, which was praised for its perfect fit.
Throughout their work, the tailors followed strict rules: they spoke softly, walked carefully, and only discussed work-related matters. They avoided personal conversations and never shared details about their tasks. These traditions underscore the unique and secretive nature of crafting attire for China’s most powerful figures.
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