On the 60th anniversary of the National Day military parade, President Hu Jintao's dark tunic drew significant attention from both domestic and international media. One interpretation suggests that since the founding of the People’s Republic of China, several generations of national leaders have chosen to wear civilian attire rather than military uniforms when presiding over the National Day military parade as the supreme commander-in-chief of the Central Military Commission. This decision is seen as a way to "maintain tradition while looking ahead," symbolizing a balance between historical continuity and modernization.
Behind this seemingly simple choice lies a deeper reflection of shifting ideological currents in China. The concept of "national service" has long been embedded in the attire of top leaders, subtly signaling changes in political philosophy and national identity. This tradition traces back to the early years of the PRC, when a specialized garment unit was established to create custom-made clothing for high-ranking officials.
In March 1956, a group of 208 tailors from Shanghai moved to Beijing to open a suit-making workshop. Later that year, the Central Office recruited 12 elite garment technicians from Shanghai and set up the "Department of Special Accounting Room Garment Processing Department." These individuals were not just tailors—they were part of an exclusive team tasked with crafting formal attire for the nation's leaders. Many of them had previously worked in the renowned Red Parade Tailor Shop, known for its expertise in making traditional Chinese garments for foreign dignitaries.
Once inside Zhongnanhai, the team’s primary mission became clear: to design a new look for Mao Zedong for the 1956 "Eighth Congress" podium appearance. This led to a period of intense, semi-military-style work—living in a small courtyard, working strict hours, and maintaining strict secrecy. Their creations included a distinctive tunic with a large, sharp lapel and a wide neckline, which later became iconic and was even referred to as the "Mao suit" by the West.
After the 1956 event, the tailors continued their work, eventually moving to Hongdu Clothing Store in East Jiao Min Lane, where they served both Chinese leaders and foreign guests. Over time, the responsibility of making clothes for Mao Zedong fell largely to Tian Yatong. However, due to security concerns, tailors could not directly measure or interact with him. Instead, they relied on visual assessments and experience to ensure a perfect fit.
One famous story involves Tian Yatong, who once approached Mao at midnight to inspect his figure from a distance. With decades of experience, he successfully determined the correct measurements without direct contact. Similarly, Yu Yuanfang once created a tailored suit for Prince Sihanouk based on a brief meeting and visual inspection, which was praised for its precision.
The rules governing these tailors were strict. They were advised not to speak too quickly, not to walk too heavily, and to avoid discussing anything beyond their work. As Tian A Tong recalled, "Only talk about things within the work; do not say anything else."
This hidden world of craftsmanship behind the scenes reflects not only the meticulous attention to detail but also the deep respect and secrecy surrounding the personal lives of China's leaders. It's a legacy of dedication, tradition, and quiet service that continues to shape the image of the nation's highest figures.
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